Medium red-brown with significant fine sediment. Intense, lifted nose that broadens insanely at the second sniff. Old Pu-erh, overripe pippin apples, some old calvados notes on the nose, continuing to get deeper with each sniff. Tremendous integration on the palate, befitting the time in bottle. Black lime, mace, old sauvignon blanc character, building, only a tiny bit of nuttiness on the end, even a bit of dried flowers and old Riesling. Feels very dry, and slowly darkens as the finish lingers for several minutes. Tremendously bright, likely in need of air. Full details

The Century Malmsey Solera was established in 1900 and not bottled until 1999; its wellspring based on the rare Malvasia Cândida grape, the most celebrated in the island's long history. "Mid-deep mahogany, thin green rim; pungent, high-toned aromas, redolent of green leaves and flowers, a hedgerow of the nose; incredibly rich (123 g/l of residual sugar), unctuous dried fig and prune-like fruit offset by powerful yet ravishing acidity, keeping the wine fresh and alive. Long, powerful sinewy length. Great poise." —Richard Mayson, “Madeira: The Islands and Their Wines” (2016) Full details

Medium-dark brown. Intense, lifted nose, cocoa nib, very fine oolong tea, volcanic rock, dark cherry, cascara. Smells quite dry. Super dark attack, hot clay, more cocoa nibs, chinotto. Intensely, intensely mineral. Finish is nearly bone-dry, more floral, with a beautiful oolong sensibility. Like the best oolong teas, a wine that demands repeated and close consideration. One of the four ‘classic’ Madeira varieties, Verdelho is meio seco—medium-dry. Full details

Made of Malvasia and one of the all-time greats. Green-tinged mahogany; ethereal bouquet; beautifully lifted and singing from the glass, with tremendous inner-mouth energy, suggesting immortality. Butterscotch, and the slight suggestion of molasses, dark chocolate and toffee-richness, with acidity ascendant to yield a toffee-apple finish. Sublime by any measure. Malvasia is historically the most celebrated of the classic grape varieties on the island: the sweetest and most unctuous of Madeiras—the stuff of legends, literature and song. Full details