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Maury
If Roussillon is currently one of the most exciting and dynamic of all wine regions in France, then Maury is arguably its epicenter, an emerging "grand cru" according to British wine writer Andrew Jefford and others, not unlike Priorat was 30 years ago. Set in the upper reaches of the Agly Valley in Roussillon, Maury is a corridor of windswept schist, marl, gneiss and limestone: a wild, nearly lunar landscape of old-vine vineyards dominated by the relentless Tramontana wind; the Corbières massif; and the ruined Cathar fortress of Quéribus perched above, serving as warning and sentinel.
Vineyards are planted up to 450 meters, and warm days are balanced by cool nights, preserving freshness and lift in Maury wine of every type. First recognized in 1936 for its sweet Vin Doux Naturel wines, dry Maury Sec gained its own appellation in 2011. While the latter is responsible for much of the recent excitement regarding the appellation, its emergence has only raised the quality of the fortified wines for which the region is renowned. Based on Grenache noir, Maury can be bottled within the first two years (in the manner of vintage Port) or can undergo prolonged oxidative aging, with some wines left exposed to the elements, developing the noble "rancio" character that is the alpha and the omega of this historic winemaking tradition.
Mas Peyre Maury Hors d’Age ‘La Rage du Soleil’ NV
France ➜ Roussillon ➜ Maury AOP 17.0% ABV
17.0% ABV • Fortified, Oxidative
First established in 2003, this singular Maury solera was augmented with small lots each year until 2008, then rested quietly in barrel until bottling in late 2016. 100% Grenache noir, the name ‘Rage du Soleil’ alludes to the heat of Roussillon and the enduring nature of its old vines. Oxidative, yet still primary, this deft wine boasts notes of cherry compote, spice cake and cocoa powder; tobacco leaf, bitter orange and rose pepper. With lightly drying tannins balancing the wine’s inherent richness, expect a continued graceful evolution in the bottle. Enjoy with creamy blue-veined cow’s milk cheeses, with nuts and dark chocolates. Serve slightly chilled or at cellar temperature. Full details
Domaine du Dernier Bastion Maury Rancio 2008
France ➜ Roussillon ➜ Maury AOP 15.5% ABV
15.5% ABV • Fortified, Oxidative
Produced only in exceptional vintages, the Domaine du Dernier Bastion Maury Rancio is pure Grenache noir, selected from the estate’s oldest vines. Fermented in a 200-year-old concrete tank, the wine was aged in a 1,000-liter tonneau for eight years, then placed on the rooftop under glass and exposed to the elements for a final year prior to bottling. The resulting wine exhibits warming complexity and reverberative depth, its mellow rancio character embroidered on flavors of spiced cherry, caramelized orange, fruit cake, fig, walnut, coffee and cocoa. Full details
Domaine du Dernier Bastion Maury Rancio 2007
France ➜ Roussillon ➜ Maury AOP 15.5% ABV
15.5% ABV • Fortified, Oxidative
Produced only in exceptional vintages, the Domaine du Dernier Bastion Maury Rancio is pure Grenache noir, selected from the estate’s oldest vines. Fermented in a 200-year-old concrete tank, the wine was aged in a 1,000-liter tonneau for nine years, then placed on the rooftop under glass and exposed to the elements for a final year prior to bottling. The resulting wine exhibits warming complexity and reverberative depth, its mellow rancio character embroidered on flavors of spiced cherry, caramelized orange, fruit cake, fig, walnut, coffee and cocoa. Full details
