portfolio
Oxidative
For centuries, most winemaking processes have incorporated at least some oxygen. But certain styles of unfortified and fortified wines incorporate near-complete exposure to oxygen for long durations. Sotolon Selections explores the results of this interplay, from the delicate saltiness of rancio sec to the rollicking acidity of old Madeira, and every style in between.
Marsala
Ostinato Marsala Fine Ambra Secco
Italy ➜ Sicily ➜ Marsala DOC 17.0% ABV
17.0% ABV • Fortified, Oxidative
Delicious, balanced and refined, Ostinato Fine Ambra Secco is a dry Marsala that is produced according to traditional methods now rarely seen in the appellation, especially in Fine expressions. It begins with its ‘alto grado’ base wine, from late-harvest, low-yielding Grillo, Inzolia and Catarratto old vines. Its higher natural ABV means the wine is less reliant on fortification and is more expressive of Marsala’s indelible terroir. Extended aging beyond the minimum Fine requirements produce a Marsala that resonates with deep vinous character. Full details
Ostinato Marsala Fine Ambra Dolce
Italy ➜ Sicily ➜ Marsala DOC 17.0% ABV
17.0% ABV • Fortified, Oxidative
Delicious, balanced and refined, Ostinato Fine Ambra Dolce is a sweet Marsala that is produced according to traditional methods now rarely seen in the appellation, especially in Fine expressions. It begins with its ‘alto grado’ base wine, from late-harvest, low-yielding Grillo, Inzolia and Catarratto old vines. Its higher natural ABV means the wine is less reliant on fortification and is more expressive of Marsala’s indelible terroir. Extended aging beyond the minimum Fine requirements produce a Marsala that resonates with deep vinous character. Full details
Rancio Sec/Vi Ranci
Abbe Rous ‘Matifoc’ Rancio Sec NV
France ➜ Roussillon ➜ Côte Vermeille IGP 16.5% ABV
16.5% ABV • Fully Oxidized, Oxidative
A wine of ancient tradition, Abbé Rous ‘Matifoc’ Rancio sec is produced from old-vine Grenache noir and is aged outdoors in old 600-liter Banyuls demi-muids for up to four years before returning to the cellars for continued oxidative aging. The resulting wine is a blend, with an average age of 10-12 years in partially-filled barrels, resulting in its inimitable rancio character. Full details
Terres des Templiers Rancio Sec NV
France ➜ Roussillon ➜ Côte Vermeille IGP 16.5% ABV
16.5% ABV • Fully Oxidized, Oxidative
Terres des Templiers Rancio Sec descends from an ancient tradition preserved by Catalan winemakers of the Côte Vermeille. From old-vine Grenache noir found on its schist-dominated, terraced vineyards overlooking the sea, the wine is first aged out-of-doors in old demi-muids before returning to the cellars of the producer for extended oxidative aging in old Banyuls casks. The wine is a blend with an average age of 10-12 years spent in partially-filled barrels, resulting in its pronounced rancio character. Full details
Tresmontaine ‘Puits aux Souhaits’ Rancio Sec NV
France ➜ Roussillon ➜ Côte Vermeille IGP 15.5% ABV
15.5% ABV • Fully Oxidized, Oxidative
Tresmontaine ‘Puits aux Souhaits’ Rancio sec is the last produced under the auspice of the late winemaker, Bernard Sapéras, who kept it mainly for family and friends. Made from Grenache noir vines with an average age of 70 years and a yield of just 20 hl/ha, it was fermented in old casks over the course of several years before coming to rest in barrels first used for the domaine’s Banyuls blanc. The average age of the blend is 10 years. Full details
Domaine de Rombeau Rancio Sec 2010
France ➜ Roussillon ➜ Côtes Catalanes IGP 16.5% ABV
16.5% ABV • Fully Oxidized, Oxidative
The lightest of the Rombeau Rancio secs, the 2010 is distinguished by its cepage and its shorter elevage, with an increased percentage of Macabeu and, atypically, a small amount of Muscat à Petits Grains (roughly 10%) added to the foundational Grenache blanc and Grenache gris. Vinified in tank with native yeasts, then transferred to an assortment of old barrels, foudres and glass demijohns for 12-18 months aging outdoors. A portion is then returned to the cellars, which rest above ground and lack temperature control, while another portion remains in the "barrel forest" outdoors until the time of blending and bottling. Full details
Domaine de Rombeau Rancio Sec 2009
France ➜ Roussillon ➜ Côtes Catalanes IGP 16.5% ABV
16.5% ABV • Fully Oxidized, Oxidative
The 2009 Rombeau Rancio sec is the most complete and balanced of the Rombeau Rancio secs, displaying the pronounced umami funk of 2008 with the lighter touch of 2010. It was vinified in tank with native yeasts, then transferred to an assortment of old barrels, foudres and glass demijohns for 12-18 months' aging outdoors. A portion is then returned to the cellars, which rest above ground and lack temperature control, while another portion remained in the "barrel forest" until the time of blending and bottling in mid-2016. Full details
Domaine de Rombeau Rancio Sec 2008
France ➜ Roussillon ➜ Côtes Catalanes IGP 16.5% ABV
16.5% ABV • Fully Oxidized, Oxidative
The most evolved of the Rombeau Rancio secs, the 2008 exhibits a pronounced "rancio funk" while nevertheless retaining its complexity and rough good manners. It was vinified in tank with native yeasts, then transferred to an assortment of old barrels, foudres and glass demijohns for 24 months' aging outdoors. A portion was then returned to the cellars, which rest above ground and lack temperature control, while another portion remained in the "barrel forest" until the time of blending and bottling in mid-2016. Full details
Domaine Fontanel Rancio Sec 2007
France ➜ Roussillon ➜ Côtes Catalanes IGP 17.0% ABV
17.0% ABV • Fully Oxidized, Oxidative
This is a rare example of what is one of the oldest forms of winemaking, once found throughout the Mediterranean and now preserved by Catalan tradition on both sides of the French-Spanish border. The grapes are hand-harvested and fermented with native yeasts, without fortification. The youngest vines informing this wine date from 1946; the oldest from 1908. Exposed to the elements and aged for many years in partially filled oak barrels, the resulting wine has what the Roussillon locals call le goût de soleil, the taste of the sun: dry and concentrated, with complex rancio flavors of walnuts, cocoa and curry spices. This wine slumbered in barrels until May 2018. Full details
Domaine Jorel ‘La Garrigue’ Rancio Sec 2003
France ➜ Roussillon ➜ Côtes Catalanes IGP 16.0% ABV
16.0% ABV • Fully Oxidized, Oxidative
Manuel Jorel’s first Rancio sec was the result of the scorching 2003 vintage and amongst the most unique in the Sotolon Selections portfolio. His small parcel of Macabeu grapes began to shrivel on the vine; he picked the grapes and set about making an ‘orange wine’ with them, leaving the emerging wine on the skins for 28 days. It began to oxidize and he feared the wine lost, but with the advice of an old-timer, he racked the wine into old Rivesaltes casks in the corner of his second cellar (which then doubled as a garage, or garrique). Full details
Mas Peyre ‘Le Démon de Midi’ Rancio Sec NV
France ➜ Roussillon ➜ Côtes Catalanes IGP 17.0% ABV
17.0% ABV • Fully Oxidized, Oxidative
The Bourrel family inaugurated this solera of overripe, old-vine Macabeu grapes in 2005. Grapes are harvested by hand at 254 g/l residual sugar and, placed into the first of three barrels, are allowed to slowly ferment to dryness. Subsequent elevage in the partially-filled barrels creates an oxidative environment; bottled at an average of six years of age, the ‘Démon de Midi’ (noonday demon) takes on notes of almond, garrigue honey and leather, with a touch of salt emerging at the finish. Full details
Puig-Parahÿ ‘Pyror’ Rancio Sec NV
France ➜ Roussillon ➜ Côtes Catalanes IGP 18.5% ABV
18.5% ABV • Fully Oxidized, Oxidative
The barrels that winemaker Georges Puig blends to produce ‘Pyror’ were first set down in the early 1960s by his father and grandfather, and have been maintained as "perpetual barrels" ever since, with small amounts withdrawn every few years. The wine—equal parts Grenache blanc, Grenache gris and Macabeu—slowly concentrates in the ancient oak and chestnut barrels, gaining a particular combination of polish and rusticity. Full details
Tresmontaine ‘Tabacal Dos’ Rancio
France ➜ Roussillon ➜ Côtes Catalanes IGP 17.0% ABV
17.0% ABV • Fully Oxidized, Oxidative
A Catalan tradition, Rancio wines such as this predate the modern conception of wine and viticulture. This wine’s rustic character begins with a full fermentation and evolves first in glass demijohns and then in used oak barrels, which are partially filled and often out in the sun. Owing to the process, the climate, and character of the grapes, the wine is oxidative and rich with earth, smoke and mushroom notes. This wine has aged over 5 years in barrels that formerly housed the eponymous wine of its village, lending a unique depth. Enjoy with cured meats and cheeses, or with rich creamy desserts. Serve either lightly chilled or at cellar temperature. Full details
Tresmontaine ‘Tabacal’ Rancio NV
France ➜ Roussillon ➜ Côtes Catalanes IGP 17.0% ABV
17.0% ABV • Fully Oxidized, Oxidative
Tresmontaine ‘Tabacal’ Rancio is the last Rancio produced by legendary Roussillon winemaker Fernand Baixas at Arnaud de Villeneuve, prior to his "retirement." (He can now be found with other raconteurs at nearby Domaine de Rombeau.) The blend is 100% Grenache blanc from the 2002 and 2003 vintages, exposed to the elements in glass demijohns for 18 months, then returned to the cellars to rest in old foudres and barrique for an additional 10 years. Full details
Espodol Vi Ranci Sec NV
14.0% ABV • Fully Oxidized, Oxidative
While the tradition of Vi Ranci and Rancio sec has survived on both sides of the French-Spanish Catalan border, the large majority of those now produced in Spain are fortified. Espodol Vi Ranci Sec is the rare unfortified expression: Old-vine Garnatxa blanca and Garnatxa rosat, hand-harvested and fermented under the rafters in epoxy-lined concrete tanks. After two years, a portion of the slowly oxidizing wine is transferred to large wooden foudres (where it remains for 3-4 years), and then into a six-tier solera of demi-muids that was originated in 1950. Full details
Maury
Mas Peyre Maury Hors d’Age ‘La Rage du Soleil’ NV
France ➜ Roussillon ➜ Maury AOP 17.0% ABV
17.0% ABV • Fortified, Oxidative
First established in 2003, this singular Maury solera was augmented with small lots each year until 2008, then rested quietly in barrel until bottling in late 2016. 100% Grenache noir, the name ‘Rage du Soleil’ alludes to the heat of Roussillon and the enduring nature of its old vines. Oxidative, yet still primary, this deft wine boasts notes of cherry compote, spice cake and cocoa powder; tobacco leaf, bitter orange and rose pepper. With lightly drying tannins balancing the wine’s inherent richness, expect a continued graceful evolution in the bottle. Enjoy with creamy blue-veined cow’s milk cheeses, with nuts and dark chocolates. Serve slightly chilled or at cellar temperature. Full details
Domaine du Dernier Bastion Maury Rancio 2008
France ➜ Roussillon ➜ Maury AOP 15.5% ABV
15.5% ABV • Fortified, Oxidative
Produced only in exceptional vintages, the Domaine du Dernier Bastion Maury Rancio is pure Grenache noir, selected from the estate’s oldest vines. Fermented in a 200-year-old concrete tank, the wine was aged in a 1,000-liter tonneau for eight years, then placed on the rooftop under glass and exposed to the elements for a final year prior to bottling. The resulting wine exhibits warming complexity and reverberative depth, its mellow rancio character embroidered on flavors of spiced cherry, caramelized orange, fruit cake, fig, walnut, coffee and cocoa. Full details
Domaine du Dernier Bastion Maury Rancio 2007
France ➜ Roussillon ➜ Maury AOP 15.5% ABV
15.5% ABV • Fortified, Oxidative
Produced only in exceptional vintages, the Domaine du Dernier Bastion Maury Rancio is pure Grenache noir, selected from the estate’s oldest vines. Fermented in a 200-year-old concrete tank, the wine was aged in a 1,000-liter tonneau for nine years, then placed on the rooftop under glass and exposed to the elements for a final year prior to bottling. The resulting wine exhibits warming complexity and reverberative depth, its mellow rancio character embroidered on flavors of spiced cherry, caramelized orange, fruit cake, fig, walnut, coffee and cocoa. Full details
Banyuls
Domaine du Mas Blanc
Garnatxa d’Empordà
Espodol Solera Garnatxa d’Empordà NV
Spain ➜ Catalunya ➜ Empordà DO 15.5% ABV
15.5% ABV • Fortified, Oxidative
The Celler Espolla’s Solera Garnatxa is considered amongst the finest and most prominent of its tradition in Catalunya. Ripe, passerillé Garnatxa blanca and rosat grapes are harvested by hand and fermented with native yeasts in concrete tank. The fermentation is arrested via mutage, and the wine begins a lengthy, oxidative odyssey through a six-tier solera that was inaugerated in 1931. Dark amber, seamless and layered, it shows dried apricot and cherry, roasted hazelnut and sweet/smoky baking spices. Enjoy with a wide variety of cheeses and desserts. Once opened, it will keep well for 6-8 weeks. Full details
Carcavelos
Villa Oeiras Carcavelos 'Nacional' 12 Year Old
Portugal ➜ Lisboa VR ➜ Carcavelos DOC 18.5% ABV
18.5% ABV • Fortified, Oxidative
Arinto, Gallego Dourado and Ratinho form the backbone of this benchmark 12-year-old blend, and the signature of the Atlantic Ocean features prominently in its expression. The wine is aged exclusively in Portuguese ('Nacional') oak, which lends a pleasing rusticity and generosity of spirit. Full details
Villa Oeiras Carcavelos 15 Year Old
Portugal ➜ Lisboa VR ➜ Carcavelos DOC 18.5% ABV
18.5% ABV • Fortified, Oxidative
Arinto, Gallego Dourado and Ratinho form the backbone of this benchmark 15-year-old blend, and the signature of the Atlantic Ocean features prominently in its expression. The wine is aged in a combination of Nacional (Portuguese) and French oak. Full details
Quinta dos Pesos Carcavelos 1999
Portugal ➜ Lisboa VR ➜ Carcavelos DOC 20.0% ABV
Quinta dos Pesos Carcavelos 1998
Portugal ➜ Lisboa VR ➜ Carcavelos DOC 21.0% ABV
Quinta dos Pesos Carcavelos 1997
Portugal ➜ Lisboa VR ➜ Carcavelos DOC 21.5% ABV
Quinta dos Pesos Carcavelos 1996
Portugal ➜ Lisboa VR ➜ Carcavelos DOC 20.0% ABV
Quinta dos Pesos Carcavelos 1995
Portugal ➜ Lisboa VR ➜ Carcavelos DOC 21.0% ABV
Quinta dos Pesos Carcavelos 1994
Portugal ➜ Lisboa VR ➜ Carcavelos DOC 21.0% ABV
Quinta dos Pesos Carcavelos 1993
Portugal ➜ Lisboa VR ➜ Carcavelos DOC 20.5% ABV
Quinta dos Pesos Carcavelos 1992
Portugal ➜ Lisboa VR ➜ Carcavelos DOC 21.5% ABV
Quinta dos Pesos Carcavelos 1991
Portugal ➜ Lisboa VR ➜ Carcavelos DOC 20.0% ABV
Quinta dos Pesos Carcavelos 1990
Portugal ➜ Lisboa VR ➜ Carcavelos DOC 21.0% ABV
Quinta dos Pesos Carcavelos 1989
Portugal ➜ Lisboa VR ➜ Carcavelos DOC 21.0% ABV
Quinta dos Pesos Carcavelos 1988
Portugal ➜ Lisboa VR ➜ Carcavelos DOC 21.0% ABV
Quinta dos Pesos Carcavelos 1987
Portugal ➜ Lisboa VR ➜ Carcavelos DOC 21.0% ABV
Madeira
Belem’s
Portugal ➜ Madeira DOC 17.0% ABV
Saveiro
Portugal ➜ Madeira DOC 19.0% ABV
Henriques & Henriques
Portugal ➜ Madeira DOC 19.0-20.0% ABV