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Terrantez

For its most ardent admirers, Terrantez is the sin qua non of madeira wine. With just over 2 hectares planted on the island—1.3 ha of which are in H&H’s vineyard at Preçes, Ribeira de Caixa—it is also rarest of Madeira's noble varieties: notoriously difficult to grow, low-yielding, favoring sites near the sea where vineyards have given way to hotels. Production is reserved entirely for expensive garrafeira/frasqueira (vintage) essays—H&H is the only firm able to offer an age-statement expression—giving wines that range from meio seco to meio doce and boast autumnal flavors of smoked meat, honey seed cake, chestnut and tobacco leaf allied to debonair, rakish demeanor.